We are now halfway to having done 106 Juno 106es. One of our friends suggested that when we get to #106, we should just smash it. Don’t worry, we probably won’t.
We know probably everything that can ever go wrong in a Juno 106 and Alison can calibrate one from memory in 20 minutes.
Since many people have been choosing to have their voice chips replaced with Analog Renaissance clones, we are amassing quite a large collection of original chips which we are gradually restoring to be sold on our Reverb shop.
We’ve been working on a lot of Juno 6 and 60s as well, including one that had more PCB damage concentrated in a small area than I have ever seen. In this sort of case, the best approach is to essentially replace each broken trace with a new wire, its path as close to that of the original trace as possible.
I’ve seen the aftermath of work that other techs have done where they scraped the solder mask (the green coating) off of a further-in area of a trace that was broken or whose pad was lifted, and tried to solder a component lead or wire onto it. Sometimes these traces eventually end up peeling back to beyond the point where the “repair” was done, making the repair useless. Our method relies entirely on solder pads that were meant to be solder pads, and not on already-compromised traces!